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Don't let the Harley heat monster ruin your riding.
Reduce  Engine Surging
Improve Throttle Response
Reduce Engine Ping


HD 2007/2008 Engines

High Heat on 2007/08 HD engines

HD 2007/08 Performance Recommendations

Cool your exhaust temperature with the Wide Band O2 upgrade for 2007/08 HD

Harley Camshaft Specification Tables

HD Twin Cam Engine Builds
TC 128 HP 95 CID
TC 100HP Street Engine

The basics of Fuel Injection explained

Rammer Performance Air Cleaners
TC Performance Heads 100+HP

Pro Tuning on a Shade Tree Budget


Step by Step instructions for
Installing a Camshaft in your motorcycle
Page 3

cam_install_03.jpg (8987 bytes)
Figure 3

Remove outer ignition cover. Before you remove the ignition sensor plate or ignition module, you will want retain the current ignition timing. This can be done by scribing a mark on the sensor plate and on the inside of the nose cone as in Figure 3. When  re-assembling the engine,  the original ignition timing can be set by aligning the scribe marks made earlier.

 Complete the removal of the ignition components by:

bulletRemove ignition sensor or module. The sensor or module can not be completely removed because of the wiring. Pull enough of the wiring through the   Timing Gear cover to keep the sensor out of the way.
bulletRemove rotor from the end of the camshaft.
cam_install_04.jpg (9902 bytes)
Figure 4

Remove the Timing Gear Cover or the "Nose Cone" as it is sometimes referred to. Remember the locations of the bolts used to retain the Timing Gear Cover. There are several different length bolts. It is important that they be replaced in the proper bolt hole.

Use rubber or polyurethane hammer to gently tap the cover loose. You may have to use a screwdriver to "gently" pry the cover off the alignment pins. It is important that minimal force be used to remove the cover so that gasket surfaces on the engine case and timing cover case are not damaged.

Move the Timing Gear Cover off to the side. The cover can not be moved away from the engine because the wiring to the ignition will not allow it. The cover can be held in place, out of the way with a bungee cord.

cam_install_05.jpg (11154 bytes)
Figure 5

Note the location of the camshaft. Locate the timing marks on the camshaft and the pinion gear. Align these timing marks before you remove the old cam.
With the back wheel raised off the ground, the engine can be rotated by placing the transmission in 5th gear, then turning the rear wheel until the desired engine position is reached

Remove the breather gear nylon washer and the breather gear from the engine. The breather gear is the black plastic gear toward the rear of the engine.

The lifters need to be out of the way prior to removing the camshaft. If the engine has more than 20,000 miles on it or is a 1996 or older bike, it is recommended that the lifters be replaced. The current design Harley-Davidson OEM lifters work find for all engine applications under 6500 RPMs.

To remove the lifters, remove the lifter blocks. Removal of the lifter blocks requires a 1/4" 12 point socket.

If you do not have a camshaft installation tool or a magnetic lifter holder, it is recommended that you remove the lifter blocks. This type of tool makes it easy to hold the lifters in place while the cam is being installed.

With the lifters held in place with a camshaft installation tool or the lifter blocks removed:

cam_install_07.jpg (7246 bytes)
Figure 7

Remove the old camshaft from the engine

Remove camshaft thrust washer from the engine case if it does not come out with the camshaft. Check for any camshaft spacers that may have been in place. If there is currently an aftermarket camshaft in the engine, there should be a spacer. If you have the OEM "N" grind camshaft, there is no spacer, just the thrust washer.

Your engine should now look very much like Figure 7.


Table of Contents
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Modification, Installation, Maintenance and Tuning Index  will help you find most of the information you want on one page.

How to get Professional Tuning Results at home
Testing the Innovate Motorsport LM-1 portable air fuel meter

Profession Tuning on a Shade Tree Budget

Veypor VR2 Data Logger and Instrument Panel
Video Installation and Demo
Purchase VR2

Engine Performance
How to Build a
TC96 2007 Engines
TC88 70HP Stage1  
TC95 128HP Stage 3
TC95 100HP Street
TC96 2007 Stage 1/2
EVO 64 HP Stage 1
EVO 74 HP Stage 2
EVO 82 HP Stage 3
EVO 95 HP Stage 3
883 to 1200 Upgrade
Shovelhead Modifications

New EFI for EVO and TC

Performance Gallery
Horsepower Gallery
Evolution 80
Twin Cam 88/95
Evolution Unlimited
Sportster Unlimited
Drag Strip Gallery
Land Speed Racing Gallery
CV Carburetor
Modifying the CV carb
Tuning a CV carb
Selecting a cam
Install a TC 88/95 cam
Install a Big Twin cam
Install Sportster cams

Camshaft Specifications
Twin Cam

Exhaust Systems
EVO Exhaust Testing
TC Exhaust Testing
Khrome Werks AR100 test
Making Drag Pipes Work

Shop Manual
Carburetor Troubleshooting
Finding Manifold Leaks
Cylinder Heads
Pistons and Cylinders
Belt Drive
Shop Manual Appendix
$20 Bike Lift
Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
Engine Tuning
Nitrous Oxide
Motor Oil
Stutter Box
General Information
WEB Links
Buy Books and Manuals
Performance Calculations
Estimate Horsepower
Estimate 1/4 Mile Time
Estimate Top Speed

Engine Displacement
Exhaust Length
Gear Ratios
Air Density

The Nightrider Diaries
The ramblings of a genius a, a madman and something in between.

Where is Sifton Cams?

Autocom Active-7 tested

Harley-Davidson EFI
-EFI basics explained
-EFI modifications explained

183 HP, 2 carbs, 2680cc

Copyright 1997-2006  Stephen Mullen, Oldsmar, FL -+-